Today started with a few slow Asanas, connecting mind body and gearing up for the madness of the world and the peace of the mind, or maybe its the other way around.
Cup of tea, towels and surfboard where thrown into the Phoenix ready for take off, for those who don't know what the Phoenix is, it is my trusty Toyota transportation unit, she suffer from a oil leak and a few fumes you cant hate her, she is 17 years old and handles the beaten up surf roads around the Bay.
Byron bay is a little culture town that I now call home, after being here for more than 3 months I have earned that privilege by leaving parts of my skin in the main street after many midnight skate downs and a incomplete fast speed sess slides. I don't care what others think I have bled for this town and It owes me.
Blue and green colours explode on the waters around the headlands of byron. The southerly wind is still sending a crisp bite on the skin, enough for this skinny 65kg surfer to wear a wetty.
I have opted to surf a nice little 2ft left beachy pealing off into a channel down at broken head,
A fresh application of wax and a light jog and I am ready. The entry is flawless and I am feeling confident there are a few local guys already on the take off spot but I am keen as mustard to get a wave. For some reason I have to start the day catching waves other wise I feel like a washed up alcoholic with no drive for life, and thats a funny feeling especially when you haven't had a drop of the devils tears for 3 years going on a lifetime. I love not being a consumer of alcohol another way to say to society that I don't need your one size fits all way to have fun and express.
The ocean is a place where you can expand your consciousness and meditate on the vastness of Gods creations or the existence of your finite self, floating in a huge drop of water. Either way you end up having some deep experiences.
The water was clear and the crew had the monday blues, I dont know why becuase none of them where at work and neither am I. Sometimes Life can seem like an occupation where your soul has to confine its Infinite nature to a limited four arm expression. It will do so longs as I have the capacity to love and give. So I conclude and Paddle for the next wave.
The take off of the wave seemed normal, blue ramp and sucking motion in a vortex shape, this was all playing out as it should, then I noticed a new shape, in the face of the wave, Dark bluish black body, moving faster then a torpedo, my mind rushed into panic and assumptions of jaws and a 20 ft tiger shark making its death blow, but my little adventure Ben inside said 'lets do it!'The shape breached the surface right in front of my path, my face exploded with an expression of wow and emptiness. The Shape then took the form as a dolphin dancing on the surface of the silky ocean, it leaped and dove, resurfacing to take a conscious breath every minute or so, this expressed dolphin would be my friend for the next 2o minutes, where we exchanged a water connection I will never forget.
The exchanges you have in the ocean are flawless, you can be smashed and dumbed on the sand, or you can be massaged by a lapsing lip. The secrete is to be always grateful and to take that energy and imbibe it into your life, to transform your being into something so dynamic and giving as the ocean.
Always remember that the ocean is a temple so leave your mind at the shore like you would with your shoes at a door and be ready to be humbled!
Photo~Lorien Waldron
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